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ESTATE JEWELRY REPAIR / ESTATE JEWELRY REPRODUCTIONS / ESTATE JEWELRY / ESTATE JEWELRY PERIODS / ESTATE JEWELRY KNOWLEDGE / ESTATE JEWELRY EDUCATION
ESTATE JEWELRY
WHAT IS ESTATE JEWELRY?
No "buts", "sometimes", or "maybes". Estate jewelry is defined in just one way: jewelry which has been previously owned.
That's a broad term. It could refer to a true antique or to a recently purchased item quickly offered for resale.
For our purposes, we are only discussing estate jewelry which is most available and affordable to U.S. buyers: jewelry dating from the middle of the 19th century on.
MID AND LATE VICTORIAN PERIOD: 1850-1890
With the reign of Queen Victoria, Great Britain, like France, became a major jewelry center. The Industrial Revolution was creating a growing middle class that used jewelry to flaunt its new-found wealth. And with mechanization came the ability to mine precious metals and gemstones as well as to mass produce jewelry.
The romantic image of the young queen and her beloved consort, Prince Albert, influenced styles of her early and mid-reign. Seed pearls, shell cameos, strands of pearls and small co9lored stones such as garnets, amethysts and topaz were fashionable. With Albert's death in 1861, jewelry changed drastically as Victoria adopted heavy, somber jewelry to express her grief. Typical materials were jet, black onyx, tortoise shell and hair (usually horse hair), often set into heavy goldwork.
EDWARDIAN PERIOD: 1901-1914
Victoria was succeeded by her son Edward VII whose reign celebrated a joyous return to elegance. Jewelry complimented the laces, silks, and feathers worn by Edwardian ladies. Diamonds were in profusion, either alone or with colored stones. Pearls were also very popular. Because of the metal strength of platinum - replacing gold in vogue - Edwardian jewelry was an engineering marvel. Delicate filigree work could now be fashioned to resemble fine lace, and hinges allowed movement in the pieces.
ART NOUVEAU: 1890-1915
By the late 19th Century, Victorian sobriety and dignity were challenged by a strong counter-culture movement in all the decorative arts. Art Nouveau burst upon Europe and America alike with its romantic, light-hearted glory - the antithesis not only of its staid predecessor but also a reaction against the imitative, often crude, pieces which were the result of the Industrial Revolution.
Slim, ethereal figures appeared in art and jewelry as well. An art Nouveau trademark is the head of a girl with a dreamy expression and swirling hair. Dragonflies, with their long delicate wings, and peacocks with their iridescent colors and stylized floral themes, were other expressions of the influences of nature.
While established jewelers continued to use diamonds and pearls in the new, dainty styles, French jeweler Rene' Lalique extended his innovative look to ivory, horn, carved glass and enamel. Gemstones like opals and moonstones were often used. One American whose delicate designs and exquisite enameling left a strong impression on the Art Nouveau period was Louis Comfort Tiffany.
ART DECO: 1920-1935
The soft tones of Art Nouveau gave way to a brasher, more sophisticated look. Flappers were in - and so was Art Deco! Born in France, Art Deco erupted in the United States at the time when women - who had done men's jobs while the men went off to war - started expressing their new feedom. They bobbed their hair, they smoked and drank in public, they shortened their skirts and they whole-heartedly adopted the flamboyant, geometric styles of Art Deco.
Streamlined enameled pieces, often in bold colors, enhanced the angular look in clothing and design. Color combinations in gemstones were equally bold and bright. Rubies were set next to emeralds in massive brooches; coral and lapis lazauli or jade were frequently used together.
RETRO PERIOD: 1935-1949
Luxury production halted in Europe because all platinum and most gold and silver were needed to fund World War II. During this period American jewelry came into its own. Influenced by Hollywood stars, pieces were flamboyant. Huge stones in oversized pieces emerged, often mounted in rose, green and / or yellow gold depending on the makeup of the alloy. After the United States entered the war, what jewelry produced was less romantic but still outsized. This trend continued until after the war when styles again softened. Individual craftsmanship was not yet on the wane, however. One distinct trend to emerge after World War II was the use of gold. Gold had previously been used in mountings to stress the beauty of other elements of a jewelry piece; now it was being used as the sole element of fine jewelry. Many gold brooches available today, such as simple circle pins or more elaborate animals or flowers, can be traced to the trends of the 1950s.
CHANGES REFLECTED IN STONES AS WELL AS STYLES
The diamond is a good example of a stone that has changed radically in style to reflect new technology and new trends. Diamonds, we know, were worn by the ancients, and many pieces from Roman times, through the Middle Ages and into the 16th century contain large uncut diamonds. They were often cloudy and certainly did little to enhance the beauty of a piece.
The rose-cut dome-shaped diamond, with a flat bottom and triangular facets that come to a point on top, is the earliest example of a stone cut to make it appear more brilliant.
Next came the old mine cut. While it has the same number of facets as the brilliant cuts of today, diamond cutting techniques were less refined, and the glitter that makes a diamond so desirable was just beginning to emerge.
The discovery, in 1867, of great diamond deposits in South Africa led to a sharp increase in their use. They were no longer just the possession of royalty. Moreover, with the advent of electricity late in the 19th century, women were encouraged to flaunt these dazzling stones under the illumination of the light bulb. A long-lasting trend in jewelry is the use of a diamond to signify an engagement. What is indeed one of the most effective advertising gimmicks ever created has made the diamond the most popular gemstone in history. And the today's brilliant cuts - 58 facets to enhance the rainbow play of colors - the beauty of a diamond cannot be denied.
WHY DO PEOPLE WANT ESTATE JEWELRY?
Nostalgia - Sentiment plays a large part in jewelry selection. In today's chaotic society, people are searching more and more for reminders of past more stable times. Just as the whole mood of nostalgia continues strong, older jewelry reminds them of those times.
Some people may want something specific that reminds them of a piece remembered from childhood; others just love the look of the past with its charm and distinct personality. And because all jewelry is a reflection of its owner, people today want to be know for the appreciation of quality, craftsmanship and lasting worth.
Value - Jewelry has always been the most portable wealth. Jewelry is international currency.
Along with these truths is the fact that older jewelry, unless it is a true collector's item or museum piece, was probably acquired at a price below today's market. Whether it was bought from a trust, or an auction or from a private party, it was probably bought at a saving that can be passed along to today's customers.
One of a kind. When it comes to older jewelry, it is very rare to find two pieces alike. Pieces were often hand-made, and even if they were machine made, they were painstakingly finished and made to last.
Remember that in the earlier days of this century, most people had far fewer pieces of jewelry than they have today. They wore the same piece every day - a pocket watch or a good brooch, for instance. Because they were so treasured, such pieces were well cared for.
WHERE DOES ESTATE JEWELRY COME FROM?
An individual looking for an estate piece and willing to devote lots of time to the search, will find that antique stroes, flea markets, garage sales and so forth are a decent source. He or she will not, however, have the reputation of a fine store to back the piece.
Pieces that an established jewelry or department store acquires for estate promotion most often come from suppliers whose livelihood depends on finding good pieces - and knowing how to recognize them as such. There is a great deal of knowledge that must be acquired before on can legitimately become a supplier of estate jewelry.
The supplier has several sources for his goods. Auctions are one. Another is acquisition of an entire store or an entire estate inventory in a failing business. Banks are an excellent source - once the supplier has earned the respect of the bank's trust officers. Attorneys for estates are other good contacts.
Suppliers often obtain estate jewelry from stores which don't want to handle old pieces on a regular basis. Often a customer will offer an old piece in trade.
For the estate supplier, personal contact is the key. He must constantly check new sources. Many suppliers go outside the United States. England and Germany are two excellent sources of estate goods. And today there is a renewed interest in Oriental jewelry.
As a matter of interest, many GIs returning from Europe and Asia after World War II brought foriegn jewelry home with them. Later the foreign buyers swarmed to America looking for these pieces to take back to their countries of origin. To complete the circle, American suppliers are now going abroad to return such pieces to these shores.
A signed piece from a well known goldsmith is worth many times what an incidental piece would bring if unsigned, or if the name is unknown. A piece engraved with the name of a famous store such as Tiffany or Cartier also has additional inherent value.
Some other criteria for increased value of estate pieces: the original box or the original bill of sale accompanying the piece; a collection or pair usually far more valuable than a single piece; a piece in original condition, never repaired. For instance, some old rings cannot be sized without losing enameling, marks, or engraving. Sometimes new stones are added to old mountings. Even this can decrease the value for the true collector.
WHAT TO LEARN ABOUT YOUR ESTATE JEWELRY
Get in writing the kind of metal, the carat weight of stones and, whenever possible, the history of the piece. Provenance is very important for selling the piece at some future date, and if it came from the House of Hapsburg, or the estate of Joan Crawford, so much the better. Remember, the store from which you buy estate jewelry lends its reputation to the authenticity and value of the items you select. Not only should you wear these items proudly, but you should wear them with complete confidence.
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