A diamond's cost is based on the characteristics known as the "4 C's". Clarity, Color and Cut (proportion) are the quality elements which together with the Carat Weight determine the value of a stone. The closer a diamond grades to the left of one or all of these scales the rarer and the more costly it will be. While clarity is frequently assumed to be the most important factor of all the "C's", in fact, color and cut (especially cut) have a more profound affect on the visual appearance of a diamond.

Carat Weight
Carat is the unit of weight for all gemstones. One carat is subdivided into 100 "points". Therefore a diamond measuring 75 points is 3/4 carat in weight, or 0.75ct. There are five carats in a gram. The word "carat" comes from the seed of the carob tree pod which is found in tropical climates. These seeds were used until this century to weigh precious gems.

Clarity
A diamond's clarity is determined by the number, nature, position, size and color of internal characteristics called "inclusions" and surface features called "blemishes". These irregularities occurred in the liquid magna (volcanic rock) within which the diamond was created. Diamonds are mostly pure carbon, however, during crystallization other minerals nearby, or even other bits of carbon forming more quickly may have become trapped within the cooling mass. These show themselves as the various characteristics which make up the clarity of a diamond (included crystals, feathers, clouds etc). Clarity is measured on a scale ranging from pure (flawless) to heavily included (I-3). The clarity of a diamond is graded by using 10X magnification under good lighting by an experienced grader. The final clarity grade is usually determined by how easy the inclusions and blemishes are for the grader to see.

F - FLAWLESS - no inclusions

IF - INTERNALLY FLAWLESS - no internal inclusions

VVS1 - VERY VERY SLIGHTLY INCLUDED - (inclusions can only be seen under very extreme magnification)

VVS2 - VERY VERY SLIGHTLY INCLUDED - (inclusions can only be seen under very extreme magnification)

VS1 - VERY SLIGHTLY INCLUDED - (inclusions can only be seen under extreme magnification)

VS2 - VERY SLIGHTLY INCLUDED - (inclusions can only be seen under extreme magnification)

SI1 - SLIGHTLY INCLUDED - (inclusions can only be seen under magnification)

SI2 - SLIGHTLY INCLUDED - (inclusions can be seen under magnification yet should still be eye clean)

I1 - INCLUDED - (inclusions at this point are recognizeable without magnification)

I2 - INCLUDED - (inclusions at this point are very recognizeable without magnification)

Color
Ideally a diamond should have no color at all, like a drop of spring water. Increasing degrees of body color are measured on a scale ranging from no color at all (D) to deeply colored (Z). Beyond "Z" is the range where the diamond's color is vivid and rich, called "fancy colors". Diamonds of known color are used as comparison stones for color grading. Grading is done by comparing the diamond to be graded against these "master stones" under either artificial or natural north daylight (in the Northern Hemisphere). A machine called the "Colorimeter" can be used for color grading but there is no substitute for the trained human eye.

Cut
Cut, sometimes the forgotten "C", ensures that a given stone has maximum brilliance and sparkle which would not be the case where the stone cut for weight alone.
We use the following scale to grade a stone on its’ overall appearance. The proportion page shows angles and percentages for round brilliant cut diamonds; but angles and percentages are for diamond cutters and graders. Simply put, when looking at a diamond, if it doesn't catch your eye or if it doesn't flash in the light, it's probably not well cut. Good cutting is what brings fire to the ice.

Fluorescence
The bluish hint of color occasionally shown by many 'colorless' diamonds derives from their fluorescence.  If a diamond fluoresces blue under UV light and this glow is strong or very strong in intensity, the diamond will take on a bluish tint in light rich in UV wavelengths, such as bright daylight.  Any yellow body color the diamond may possess will be masked by its blue fluorescent glow, so the diamond will appear less yellow (a 'better' color) in sunlight.

Blue White
In the past, a phrase traditionally used to describe colorless diamonds was 'Blue-white'. This term originally described diamonds that possessed an extraordinary weak blue suffusion and were of the highest degree of rarity.   However with time, the phrase became applied erroneously to describe many diamonds that fluoresce blue under UV light. If colorless or near-colorless diamonds fluoresce in sunlight, the faint bluish milkiness mixed with and masked the 'white' of the diamond, hence 'blue-white'.  But while color grading many thousands of diamonds, the laboratory diamond grader occasionally comes across a 'D color, non-fluorescent diamond that does indeed have an almost imperceptible hint of blue. We do not know the cause of this color.  At our store in the last year we have seen two 'true' blue-white diamonds.

Care

Diamonds are the hardest substance on earth. They are uniquely resistant to damage by heat or scratching, and can be cut or polished only by another diamond — but an extremely hard blow to the girdle can cause a diamond to chip. By having your diamond set in a relatively protective setting, and remaining conscious of it on your finger, you can keep your diamond intact for a lifetime. Exposure during ordinary wear to perspiration and household chemicals, like chlorine and hairspray, can cause buildup that dulls the surface of a diamond. We suggest periodic cleanings to keep the diamond brilliant and refractive.

A solution of one part ammonia and six parts water can be used to clean diamond jewelry at home. If cleaning by hand, gentle scrubbing with a soft brush should loosen most dirt and greatly increase the brilliance of the diamond, but be careful not to scratch the metal of your setting. Once a year, it is a good idea to have your diamond cleaned and have the security of the setting checked.

We recommend that all diamond jewelry is stored individually in soft cloth pouches when not being worn to prevent the diamond or diamonds from scratching or dulling other jewelry.